Snapshot of Pre-War Bliss: Khartoum’s Tea Shop Immortalized by Ala Kheir

At the tender age of five, I relocated to Khartoum, the vibrant capital of Sudan, and from that moment on, my heart belonged to the river. The Nile, with its sinuous path through the city, bestowed upon us one of the rare sanctuaries from the relentless scorching sun. As a child, it was my haven, an oasis of joy, and even now, as an adult, it continues to hold a special place in my heart.

Among the various meeting spots along the Nile, there was one that stood out—an enchanting space nestled under the protective embrace of a bridge. It was a captivating vantage point, allowing one to observe the ebb and flow of life as it meandered by. This idyllic location, where people would gather to share stories, laughter, and dreams, offered solace amidst the bustling chaos of the metropolis.

The Halfaya Bridge, depicted in this image, boasts a remarkable architectural marvel and is among the more recent additions to the city’s collection of bridges. Serving as a vital link between two of Khartoum’s principal neighborhoods—Omdurman and Khartoum North—it has become an emblematic symbol of connectivity and unity.

However, a somber reality now hangs heavy over this once-thriving meeting place. Like many other corners of the city, it bears witness to a mass exodus—a departure of souls seeking refuge elsewhere. The unsettling silence reverberates beneath the bridge, haunted by the echoes of vibrant conversations that have now faded away. Once teeming with life, these spaces now languish in abandonment, their emptiness a poignant reflection of the profound changes that have befallen Khartoum.

For various reasons—political unrest, economic struggles, and sociocultural transformations—the inhabitants of the city have been compelled to seek shelter far from their beloved home. Instances like these, where once lively spots are left desolate, epitomize the profound impact of upheaval on urban landscapes.

The city that nurtured me, shaped my childhood, and provided an endless source of inspiration now grapples with a sense of loss. It yearns for its people to reclaim their place within its bustling streets, to breathe life into the empty spaces, and to revive the vibrant spirit that once thrived under the Halfaya Bridge.

As I stand here, contemplating the tranquil waters of the Nile and the bridge that spans them, it is impossible not to feel a pang of nostalgia for the days when this meeting place was alive with laughter and camaraderie. The memories are bittersweet, serving as a poignant reminder of the resilience and fortitude of the Sudanese people, who have faced adversity time and again throughout their history.

With hope in our hearts, we look forward to a day when the people will return to their beloved city, when places like this will once again bustle with activity, and when the Halfaya Bridge will regain its status as a cherished gathering spot—a testament to the indomitable spirit of Khartoum.

Amelia Green

Amelia Green